The following is nonfiction.
A cross, white as bleached bone, stands atop a low hill beside Arivaca Road, a rural, two-laner that bisects the most dangerous stretch of border in Arizona. I’m tagging along with a Humane Borders crew, an outfit of retired seniors whose mission is to prevent migrant deaths as men, women, and children attempt to cross the Sonoran desert into the United States.
Scott, the driver, points at the white cross as he pulls the F-150 off the highway onto a potholed dirt road. “That’s why we put this water station here in the first place. Poor guy died within sight of traffic.”
“Happens all the time,” says Doug from the passenger seat.
I brace myself in the back as the truck bounces along the rocky road on old leaf springs. Beside me, Penny points to a second cross—this one green—held up by a pile of small rocks. “There’s so many,” she sighs.
“That one’s new,” Scott says. “Sheriff’s deputy found the body a month ago.”
A blue Humane Borders flag flutters above a stand of short mesquite trees a short distance away. I wonder aloud how the migrant missed this water station.
“Sometimes they avoid our stations because they know Border Patrol hangs out at them. But probably he just didn’t see it, being delirious and whatnot.”
“Border Patrol’s not supposed to hang out at our stations,” Doug adds.
I ask if there’s a law that forbids ambushing migrants at aid stations and Scott says no. It’s just a handshake agreement between Humane Borders and Border Patrol.
“There’s emergency phones at some of our water stations,” Scott says. “Sometimes the migrants are the ones to call Border Patrol for a pick up, at least back when they could seek asylum. Now that that era’s over, the desert is even more deadly since they’re trying to slip through undetected.”
“It’s all so horrible,” Penny says. “And sad.” She repeats this last part when no one else speaks up, as if giving respect to the unnamed migrant who collapsed in the dirt will make things a little less terrible. The man’s death would have been brutal, his brain swelling within his skull, stomach toxins seeping into his bloodstream, kidneys shutting down as he convulsed on the ground, his American dream cut short before it began. A disproportionate number of such victims are children who don’t have the mature sweat glands of adults and are unable to cool themselves in the unforgiving heat. Will will pass more grave markers as the day wears on.
Scott parks the white pickup beside a squat mesquite tree and all four of us climb out, the three elderly Human Borders volunteers easing themselves down with the running boards, their joints as brittle as the dry, brown vegetation that populates Southern Arizona in late winter.
The tattered Humane Borders flag flaps in the breeze. It sits atop a thin metal pole that arches thirty feet in the air like a top-heavy dandelion stalk. Below the flag is a blue, fifty-five gallon plastic drum of water. It sits on cinder blocks like a redneck’s junker lawn ornament. And the water within is junk, as we find out with a digital water quality meter.
“Five hundred and eleven parts per million,” Penny says.
“Whoa, that’s too high,” Doug says. “Let’s dump it.”
Humane Borders’ threshold is five-hundred parts per million—a unit of dissolved chemicals, salts, and minerals—so Doug twists the spigot all the way open and water gushes into the dirt, turning the ground to mud beneath our boots. I follow Scott, the driver and the unofficial leader of this outing, back to the truck bed where water is still sloshing within a four-hundred gallon plastic tank. Scott lowers the tailgate and I hop up, lift one of the new empty drums down, and carry it to the cinder block stand.
Scott starts the generator as Penny drags the hose to the new drum. We fill it in silence. A silver crucifix necklace hangs from a tree branch. Beneath the necklace, a pair of walking sticks lean against the tree trunk. The hand-grips are smooth where the bark has been carefully carved away to provide a modicum of comfort on an otherwise tortuous journey. Someone spent time making these walking sticks, time hiking with them, leaning on them, depending on them. I ask why they were left here with so many miles left to travel.
“They’re only allowed to take a little plastic bag of personal items when they get picked up,” Penny explains. “Basically just their phone and ID. Border Patrol leaves everything here in the desert for us to clean up. Backpacks, clothes, shoes, wallets…kid’s toys, everything.”
“When Border Patrol has enough of ‘em rounded up for a full load,” Doug says, “they put them on this charter bus on the outskirts of Tucson, which takes them to the ICE detention facility. We might see the bus on our drive back. The windows are all boarded up. They handcuff and shackle the migrants for the ride. Women and kids. I had a buddy who worked in a regular county jail and he told me they never shackled the inmates during transport because it was a huge safety issue.” Doug scoffs and shakes his head. “No rules when it comes to migrants.”
When the new water drum is full, Scott yanks the hose out of the opening and padlocks the lid shut. Border vigilantes regularly poison the water with turpentine and gasoline. On more than one occasion, thirst and desperation has driven migrants to drink the deadly water. Hence the padlock. Hence testing the water every month and replacing it when the meter reads more than five-hundred parts per million, although bacteria build-up is a concern in its own right.
I notice that my forearm is bleeding from a long scratch. I assume it’s from one of the mesquite trees. Everything in the desert has thorns to protect itself, to protect its most valuable resource, which is water. The humans that inhabit the area are hardly any different. One needs to look no further than the rust-brown laceration eight miles south of us, though the region is strife with barbarism dwarfing the thirty-foot-tall border wall stretching beyond sight.
In 2009, an anti-immigrant vigilante group broke into a Hispanic family’s house in the quiet border town of Arivaca, which we drove through to get to our second of six water stations. The vigilantes—two white men and a white woman—made off with a few handfuls of cheap jewelry, leaving behind a nine-year-old girl with a bullet in her head. She begged for her life before the vigilantes shot her, execution style. They killed her father as well. The girl’s mother survived by playing dead, bleeding on the kitchen floor from multiple gunshot wounds.
We drive to the next water station, Scott hunching forward behind the wheel as the old rig bounces along the dirt road, Doug in the front passenger seat filling out field notes in a spiral notebook, Penny and I in the back. Penny receives a text. She smiles and her eyes fill with pride. She holds her phone for me to see. There’s a photo of a middle aged woman standing beside a small pickup truck, one hand on the hood, the other in her pocket.
“I was terrified she’d drive it without insurance so I sent her a few hundred bucks to cover the first few months,” Penny says, then tells me of her previous life in Sacramento running a nonprofit that provided homeless people with food, housing, healthcare, and work. Gale, the woman in the photo, had been a homeless opioid addict for more than a decade before Penny began delivering groceries during Covid. Penny’s nonprofit expanded in 2021 and offered financial aid and job support, but the constant emotional encouragement was what got Gale off the streets.
“Everyone needs to feel loved,” Penny says. “That’s the most important thing we provided. More important than groceries. After so many hard years feeling like a criminal, like a failure, it’s easy for someone like Gale to forget they deserve compassion.”
The pickup truck in the photo is the capstone of Gale’s success story—years of hard work to get herself clean, off the streets, and employed—culminating in her first set of wheels, a modest achievement by society’s standards, a seeming impossibility for a physically abused woman who’d almost died of multiple overdoses.
The next water station is full and the water meter reads three hundred and five parts per million—clean enough—so we continue on, trundling up a steep, rocky road that tops out on a narrow ridge. Creosote bushes screech against the side of the truck as we force our way into the wilderness. The drop to the valley below on either side would be fatal.
At the top, we’re rewarded with a stunning view of the wild, brown-green desert that we’ve all made our home. The border wall snakes to the south. Mountains rise in the west and north. Another blue Humane Borders flag beckons us in the distance.
Scott inches the truck off the road a few feet from the edge of a cliff. Doug breathes a thankful curse of relief when the vehicle comes to a stop with all four wheels still on solid ground. We all congratulate Scott for not killing us.
This is our fourth water station of the day and the drum, like all the others, is still completely full. Few migrants, if any, have come through this way in the last month, a victory for MAGA, a tragedy for those unable to escape a level of third-world poverty and violence unimaginable in the United States.
Scott tells me he used to volunteer with another aid organization down in Sasabe, Mexico, which lies smoldering in ruin just across the border.
“Total hell broke out and we had to leave,” he says. “It’s an actual war zone now.” Last year, rival gangs turned the streets of Sasabe into a no man’s land. There were so many stray bullets flying through the air, simply walking to the grocery store was risking death. So residents fled and the population fell from 2,500 to twenty almost overnight.
Not everyone escapes the violence of the North American drug trade. Up to twenty-thousand Mexicans alone die every year as fentanyl, cocaine, and heroin travel north from Latin America to feed American noses, lungs, and veins. The total death count, when including nations like Colombia that have waded through decades of war thanks to American demand, is in the tens of millions.
“Wish I’d brought binoculars,” Scott mumbles as we load back into the truck. Half a mile away at the bottom of the hill, dust rises as two pickups approach. We roll our windows down and squint against the sun for a better view, our group’s collective mind wondering if we’re about to be harassed, or attacked, by an anti-immigrant vigilante group. There is no cell coverage out here, and unlike the vigilantes, Humane Borders forbids volunteers from carrying firearms, not that any of the pacifists I’m riding with own guns.
Scott puts the truck in gear and we descend the dirt road that straddles the narrow ridge. There is only one way in and out of here, and we must pass the two pickups that are now waiting for us at the base of the hill. My eyesight is the best in our group and I count at least five people milling around, unloading unidentifiable objects from the truck beds.
My heartbeat is probably pounding hard enough to show through my T-shirt by the time we reach flat ground. I try to convince myself to stay quiet and calm and non confrontational no matter what happens, that even if the vigilantes shove an AR-15 in the face of one of my senior citizen friends, I won’t grab the screwdriver by my feet and plunge it into the neck of—
They aren’t vigilantes. They’re ranch hands repairing a fence. The quiet, nervousness in our cab vanishes and we resume searching out the side windows for the rare bird Penny’s been talking about since the morning.
Twenty minutes later, we jolt left and right like bobble heads as the rough road worsens. Doug mentions something about one of the volunteers losing his hearing aid on the last outing.
“What?” Penny asks. “I didn’t catch that.”
Doug turns around in the passenger seat to respond. “I said Gary lost his hearing aid last week when were were out by the—”
“I’m kidding,” Penny laughs, reaching forward and squeezing Doug’s shoulder. Doug turns forward without saying anything and Penny, new to the group and a decade younger than Doug, who is eighty-something, rolls her eyes at me.
Scott slows to a crawl to avoid wheel-eating potholes. Walking would be quicker. I drink my second bottle of water and eat my second sandwich. My hips are tight from being cramped in the backseat all day. We have one water station left but it’s a haul to get there on this primitive road, rocks like teeth sticking up at severe angles. I continue questioning Penny, Doug, and Scott about the various aid organizations they’ve all been part of. Their compassion for underprivileged people comes through as clearly as other people’s hatred for the same marginalized groups.
The truck lurches over a rock and an explosion breaks our conversation. Scott comes to a quick stop and all of us get out and inspect the flat tire. Eighty-somthing Doug crawls beneath the truck, searching for the spare. He and Scott are slow, ancient old men but I resist the urge to take over. They have purpose here in the desert, and there’s no rush. We have four-hundred gallons of water in the back.
Half an hour later we’re moving again, Scott creeping along the road at three or four miles an hour.
“These rocks look sharper when you don’t have a spare,” Doug laughs.
If we flat again, I decide I’ll run to the highway and hitch hike into cell service. It’s a long run—maybe twelve miles—but it would be relatively easy as a white man with no reason to fear the brown-shirts, zip ties, and assault rifles of Border Patrol. And it’s only seventy five or eighty degrees, not the one-fifteen it will be in a few months.
Still, there’s hardly a square foot of shade out here. Migrants usually hike at night and sleep at day beneath the tallest trees that line the dry river beds. The men, women, and children who make the journey are often at the end of their reserves by the time they cross the border, having spent months walking along roads, hopping freight trains, and riding overcrowded buses. They go for days without food, showers, or a sound night of sleep. They live in constant fear of the cartel and Mexican immigration police. Both police and criminals rob, rape, ransom, and murder migrants as they make their way north, fighting for the chance at earning eight bucks an hour at jobs Americans won’t touch with a hazmat suit.
We arrive at our final water station, which sits beside a dry, sandy river bed strewn with garbage and bits of plastic. It’s early afternoon and the water drum is full. All of the drums have been full. For now, Trump is winning, that migrants are being thwarted by conservative rhetoric, news of ICE raids, and the demise of the asylum program. But true thirst will drive a sane person to drink poisoned water. Climate change will continue forcing low-latitude migrants from their homes in greater numbers, no matter ICE’s budget, the ferocity of Border Patrol agents, or the racism of white Americans who have interacted with a brown-skinned migrant.
We shake open garbage bags and circle the perimeter of the water station, picking up the personal items that Border Patrol agents forced the last batch of migrants to leave behind: camouflage backpacks, carpet shoes (shoes with carpet soles to obscure footprints), a bag of tampons, a child-sized glittery Mickey Mouse shirt, a pair of USA socks. I wonder where this family is now, if they’re still together. I’m grateful I was born in this country and didn’t have to sneak across the border to live here. But in truth I’m more disgusted than grateful.
We fill two garbage bags and drive home. Before we get back to Tucson, we spot the parked charter bus with its boarded up windows at Three-Points, a town that consists of a gas station and a handful of prefabricated homes drying out in the shadeless desert a mile from a Border Patrol checkpoint. An armed security guard in a bulletproof vest exits the gas station and makes his way to the bus. He sips from his freshly purchased Mountain Dew. A heavy set of keys jangle importantly from his belt as he climbs the bus steps.
I imagine what might happen if I got out and did something illegal to free the illegals shackled within. But I’m just an observer in a country filled with observers. The guard disappears behind the bus door.
“Let’s get out of here,” Doug says. And we drive home.






